La Vie En Rose

Leading jewellery houses have been allured by rubies. The breathtaking pieces embrace the aura of an unknown beautiful world. What not to love and lust for?

GEMSTONES embrace formidable beauty unlike anything else. The delicate refraction of light makes every person fall in love with them, and if you are looking to offset a drab outfit or a dull day, the delicate pop of ruby red will not disappoint you. Rubies are the big jewellery fashion trend that you cannot overlook. Deeply researched and handcrafted jewellery sets in rubies are an ode to grandeur that dips into the royal treasure trunk.

Let it not be a simple cliche: a ruby is for royalty. It adds a dash of pizzazz and sophistication. Fine briolettes are a treasure to behold. The deep red stone is the king of precious stones. Wealth, power, heritage and spirituality are inextricably linked to it. Says designer Falguni Mehta: “Most clients prefer jewellery with a touch of colour; rubies and emeralds are popular. The deep luscious red hue of natural rubies stands out on any skin tone.” Mehta is known for her spectacular inlaid jewellery designs.

Nitin Gilara of Rambhajo Jewellers says: “The demand and inclination of people towards precious stones is on the rise. Young Indians prefer gems for a variety of reasons, and are very conscious about aesthetics and quality.”

The leitmotif of culture and tradition make coloured stones highly desirable. As Abhishek Raniwala of Raniwala 1881 puts it: “Red is a dominant colour in India, signifying our rich heritage. Ruby is the ‘king of precious stones’ for its rarity, hardness, beauty and mystical powers.” Nitin Gilara says that natural ruby may be dark pink or deep red; its smooth, gliding surface makes it desirable in jewellery designs.

According to Vedic astrology our nine planets represent the nine special gemstones. Ruby represents the sun. This adds to the value Indians attribute to gemstones. Designer Harit Zaveri says the navratnas bespoke jewellery is a must for a bride. The navratnas include rubies, emeralds, red corals, pearls, yellow sapphires, blue sapphires, hessonite, cat eye’s and diamonds.

“Rubies are symbolic of prosperity and love, and bring happiness to the wearer,” says Mehta. Gilara says: “Being a July birthstone, it protects the wearer from evil in ancient Hindu beliefs, and today, the red colour of ruby signifies love and passion.”

The significance of rubies is not limited to Hindu texts. The ancient Burmese too believed in its power and hence the soldiers at war used to get rubies inserted under their skins to protect themselves from the ravages in battle.
The significance travelled to Arabic cultures, where even dreaming about the gemstone is considered to be a sign of success in business or the harbinger of a good harvest. But how do we recognise this brilliance?

Harit Zaveri makes it clear: “Real rubies glow with a deep, vivid red hue. Fake gems are dull, they appear to be washed out and not bright. If the colour is dark red, it may be garnet instead of ruby.” Gilara suggests a test to spot fakes: Compare the stone with a shard of red glass and try to scratch the surface. See if the ruby rubs off on another surface. If the ruby tends to scratch from a fingernail or a coin impression, then it is fake as only a diamond can leave an impression on ruby. If it rubs off and leaves a mark on the surface, then too, it is not ruby.

Raniwala 1881 combines artisanal techniques, finest gemstones and intricate settings to form award-winning designs that showcase the old and the new era. Harit Zaveri’s signature ranihaar has delicate rubies signifying grandeur. Mehta too designs her vision with rubies and dazzling polkis that enhance shine and sparkle.

Rubies signify health, wealth, magnificence and royalty. They can be seen at international red carpet venues, on meticulously designed fashionable pieces that create drama where required, or highlight nuances that evoke awe and wonder. 

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